Blog
Arrived in the Big Mango around 11:00. One hour to clear immigration from wheels down. We took a 400 baht taxi to the Shangri La hotel on the river.
Very tired but went to Jack’s Bar for some food and much needed cold beer.
We managed to stay awake until sunset. Then collapsed.
So we're off.
Flying today with Singapore Airlines to Changi from Manchester. 13 hours approx.
Then a quick 2 hour 30 minutes to Bangkok Suvanarbhumi.
One night in the Shangri La and then up north.
Mountains, wild drives, food and culture
And we're off on a 24 day journey. Flying to Bangkok and then up north to Chiang Rai. A ten day self drive road trip taking in Ban Pang Hat, Nan, Phayo and Phrae in Issan. Two day boat trip along the Mekong from Chiang Khong to Luang Prabang in Laos. North to the mountains around Nong Khiaw. Back to Bangkok for Christmas. 6 sleeps
This is a slow trip and covers Cathryns birthday and Christmas. We hope to visit some relatively unexplored places in Issan.
Took a speedboat at 11:30 from Ranong to Koh Phayam. The journey takes about 40 minutes.
Hired two motorbikes from Nan shop for 1200 a piece for week. Then rode with our bags to Bamboo Bungalows on Ao Yai beach otherwise known as long beach
Bamboo bungalows in in the middle of the beach
Bamboo bungalows restaurant from the beach
Our bungalow
Ao yai beach
We seem to have settled into a routine. Up at 07:00 for an early morning constitutional along the beach and breakfast at 08:00 at Bamboo. Then on the motorbikes to a different beach.
Then lunch at Kruq khun kao in the middle village
Then back to Ao Yai for a few beers, swimming and sun. Evenings spent watching the sunset and relaxing over dinner at Bamboo bungalows
Sunset at Ao yai
With a few long Island iced teas of course
Up early for the four hour drive to Udon Thani. Had a good breakfast at Sisters. Very good Khao Tom Moo
We stopped at Chuanthanapanya Resort for a quick Pad Krapow Moo and arrived in Udon Thani about 14.00
A big city and can't say it was our favourite. Seemed to be full of older expats looking for love or sex.
The Prajaktra City Hotel was however good and away from the madness.
Had an excellent dinner at Mae Ya restaurant
Our flight to Ranong wasn't until twelve noon so we decided to take a 45 minute drive to the Red Lotus Sea. It was a good idea. The boat ride for an hour was about 4. 50 gbp and was a memory we will never forget. Simply stunning
A short one hour drive back to the airport to drop off the car then two flights via Bangkok to Ranong on the Andaman coast. About half way through our trip at this point and we loved Issan. In twelve days we only saw one backpacker. Just goes to prove you can get away from the hordes of tourists in Thailand if you put your mind to it.
After one of the best rice soup breakfasts of the trip with spare ribs and river fish we drove the 58 km from Nakhon Phanom to That Phanom. Checked into Da That Phanom place then took a leisurely stroll to a restaurant on the bank of the Mekong
That Phnom is renowned for its Wat which is regarded among the top four in Thailand for its religious significance.
That Phanom is a pleasant town on the Mekong. On the second day we had lunch with Chick and Paige who live in town and I have been following their U Tube channel for a while.
All in all a laid back town just as I like.
We haven't seen one backpacker since Bangkok and are still somewhat a novelty out here. Locals even stop us to take our photos it's quite weird.
On the second day we also visited Mukdahan another Mekong Riverside town 60 clicks to the south
A short two hour drive from Saweng Dan Din to Nakhon Phanom. A beautiful town on the Mekong with a good river walkway overlooking the karsts in Laos.
We walked the 1.7 km to Chelsea riverside restaurant owned by a couple who used to have a restaurant opposite Stamford Bridge, hence the name. A leisurely lunch of fish and Som Tam.
Were staying at chic-chidkong boutique hotel. A rather nice place by the Naga fountain
Had dinner at a cafe/bar on the riverfront.
Barbecue ribs wun sen
The Christmas tree is up.
A very relaxing day
A long 5 hour drive to Saweng Dan Din today through the Issan countryside. It's fairly flat and not much traffic. Stopped by the police twice at roadblocks for licence checks.
Arrived at Chuanthanapanya Resort at about 13:30 and downed some much needed beer and food
Went into town in the afternoon to a local bar and met some expats who were chatty
Eat in the on site restaurant which was excellent
A lazy day in Chiang Khan, but that what holidays are about. Breakfast soon after sunrise (06:30) at Luk Pochana
Lunch at no name restaurant
Sweet and sour chicken
Pad krapow moo
Fish delivery
A beer at Joe bar
Sunset on the Mekong
We left Sangkhom for the two hour drive along the Mekong at about 10:00. It's an easy drive along the bank of the Mekong separating Thailand from Laos.
Thailand now has the worst road fatality record in the world having just taken the unenviable record from Libya. We only saw two accidents today.
We arrived at Poonsawasdi guesthouse around 12:00 but couldn't check in until 14:00.
Our room is just on the right of the Thai flag
Had a few Leo beers at Slinks and a couple of dishes at the restaurant at the top of our soi for 40 baht (about 90p).
After checking in we took a walk along the boardwalk by the side of the river.
Boardwalk
Mekong
In the evening we wandered around town an walking street and eat some good food at Mask
Sunday was spent doing very little in Nong Khai bar earing and drinking. We are starting to feel human again after the long haul flights and the internal one to Udon Thani.
The Rim Riverside is great.
View from the balcony
The coffee is good too
Eat lunch at Daeng the sugar cane prawns were great
Of on the Monday morning about 10:00am to Sangkhom. It took about one and a half hours to get to Buoy Guesthouse.
View from Buoy Guesthouse restaurant
Once checked in we drove the 45 minutes to Wat Pha Phukon
Wat Pha Phukon
Back to Sangkhom for a quick visit to the night market and a relaxing evening eating and drinking in the restaurant overlooking the Mekong
We arrived in Bangkok at about 13:30, changed some money at Superrich at the airport rail link in the airport and purchased one month 10gb data package at True move for 800 baht.
Went onto town via meter taxi, for 500 baht, including tolls to the Chatrium Riverside Hotel on the 33rd floor.
Stepped out and went to a local seafood restaurant
Had an excellent night's sleep after 16 hours of travelling.
Woke up early and eat some Khao Moo dang
Off to Don Muang Airport to catch the 14:05 flight to Nong Khai which was delayed by an hour.
Picked up the car at Avis which was very quick
Arrived at the Rim Riverside Hotel at about 17:15 and immediately went out for some drinks at Brenda's and Nois and to Mackys riverside restaurant for some food
Early to bed with a quick Leo on the balcony overlooking the Mekong
Just a week to go and we are off to Thailand.
The plan is to fly to Bangkok on the 7th December and arrive on Cathy's birthday the next day. We are staying at Chatrium Riverside on the Chao Phraya river which looks good
Bangkok
Then its off for a driving tour of Issan in the North East for ten days following the Mekong River and visiting Udon Thani, Nong Khai, Sangkhom, Chiang Khan, Nakhom Phanon, That Phanom and back to Udon
Nakhon Phanom
After the road trip we are off to the island of Koh Phayam for 9 days for christmas and some relaxation
Koh Phayam
My last day before the 18:55 China Southern flight back home. Took a river boat over to the Thonburi side of the river and wandered around the markets.
20 baht con men in tuk tuks
Fed some fish
Had the best meal. If the holiday at Steve's on the banks of the Chao Phraya
It really has been a great trip.
Took a taxi to the airport. 270 baht and waited for my flight back home. Just looked at the forecast 1 degree centigrade. That's just nasty.
Another place I've never made it to in previous visits. I took a train from Hualamphong railway station at a cost of fifteen baht, about 30p. It took one hour and forty five minutes to get to Ayutthaya the former capital of Thailand.
I hired a mountain bike and rode around the ruins in the historical park for about three hours.
Tree
It was a nice place
The flight with Air Asia was at 15:50 so I had till just after lunchtime to wander around Luang Ptabang
The bamboo bridge I walked across yesterday was no more today, washed away by the volume of water, I guess they opened a dam upstream
Visited a few of Luang Prabang s many wats
More wandering
Bill very kindly gave me a lift to the airport. It was sad to be leaving Laos. I fall in love with this country each time I visit. I'll be back.
Arrived in Bangkok and got a taxi to Tara Place. Atesome Pad Krapow Moo drank a couple of Leo beer and early to bed.
Cycling around Luang Prabang today and was kindly offered a bicycle free of charge by Bill at Golden Lotus Place.
Luang Prabang is on a peninsula at the confluence of two rivers. It's pretty flat so riding is easy even in the 32 degrees heat.
I crossed the bamboo bridge and had a Beer Lao.
Here are some of the things I saw.
An old Citroën Travant Avant
The bamboo bridge
The river from the bamboo bridge
Mount Phousi
Went to L'Elephant which I has wanted to for years. It was great. Wonderful French food in a land of rice.
A good day.
Back on the bus today. I decided to walk to the bus station it's a half hour stroll from my guesthouse. This time it's a big bus rather than a minivan and it's an old clapped out Chinese thing. It did the trip in three hours without a stop which is unusual.
After checking in at Golden Lotus Place I wandered round town all afternoon decided to have a couple of cocktails and dinner at Tangor.
A final Beer Laos on the banks of the river and early to bed.
After a relaxing afternoon in the hammock it was hard to leave Muang Ngoi as it's such a beautiful place.
I had lunch at Alex Restaurant when I arrived back at Nong Khiaw and and later in the hammock at Sunset bungalows until it was time for happy hour at Q Bar. The Passion Khiaw here are great, a mix of Lao Lao and passion fruit. Dinner was Chilli chicken, roti and a Mango Lassi
Really dull Laos town is Muang Khua. Poor choice of guesthouses and to be perfectly honest I couldn't wait to get back to Muang Ngoi. The boat was at 09:30 and cost 100,000 kip to my dismay no seats on this one just a plank 5 inches of the floor
Muang Khua boat dock
The scenery is worth it though and we passed some Vietnamese Heath Robinson boats dredging for gold
Arrived back in Muang Ngoi at 12:45 and went back to Nicksa's Place for Beer Laos and cocktails to watch the sunset from my hammock
